•      Care Difficulty – Good for beginner snake hobbyists
•     Average Life Span – Up to 30 years with proper care
•     Average Adult Size – 4-5 feet long
•     Diet  - Carnivore

·       Minimum Habitat Size - 10-20 gallons when adolescent 40+ gallons for adults

 Habitat size

An appropriately sized and shaped habitat will accommodate normal behavior and exercise for a ball python. A very young snake can be housed in a 10-20 gallon tank. You will need to increase habitat size beyond 20 gallons as your snake grows to adulthood. A ball python will reach adult size in 3 years. An adult should be housed in a tank that is large enough for them to stretch out fully. A 40-gallon breeder tank is the minimum recommended tank size for an adult ball python. 

 

Building your habitat

• Substrate - Paper-based bedding, reptile carpet, forest bedding and Aspen wood shavings can be used as substrate. If Aspen is used, it must be changed weekly to prevent it from becoming excessively wet or soiled. Pine and cedar should not be used as bedding, as they contain oils that can irritate your ball python’s skin
• Décor - Provide a hiding area for your ball python. Synthetic or natural wood hiding logs are preferred. These hiding areas also provide an opportunity for your ball python to regulate their body temperature by getting away from a direct basking area. The size of the hiding log should be large enough for your snake to fit inside. Hides will need to be increased in size as your ball python grows. Ball pythons like to climb, so providing climbing branches are great for enrichment. Plants and a background can be added to complement the aesthetics of your habitat 
• Temperature - A temperature gradient of 95°F for the warm end and 78°F for the cool end is recommended. Radiant heat should be provided with an over-the-tank basking lamp with heat bulb. Temperatures in the tank should be monitored daily with at least two thermometers (one in the cool zone and one in the basking zone) or with a point-and-shoot thermometer 
• Humidity - Maintain 40 to 60% humidity; (70%) during shedding 
• Lighting - While ball pythons are nocturnal, they do benefit from exposure to UV light during the day. Provide 8-12 hours of light daily. UVA/UVB light has been shown to improve the immune system function and to promote the health and normal behavior of all reptiles. Don't leave white light on at all times; a nocturnal or infrared light should be used at night

Cleaning your ball python’s habitat

Thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat at least once a week: 

• Place your snake in a separate safe and secure temporary enclosure 
• Scrub the tank and furnishings with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution. Allow the bleach solution to remain on the enclosure for 10 minutes before washing off to ensure disinfection. If using a commercial cleaner, follow habitat cleaner manufacturer’s instructions
• Rinse thoroughly with water, removing all traces of bleach or cleaner smell
• Dry the tank and furnishings completely and add clean substrate before returning your ball python to the habitat

What Do Ball Pythons Eat 

A well-balanced ball python diet consists of:

• Appropriately sized frozen or Live rodents, thawed/warmed to above room temperature
• If feeding your snake live rodents, do not leave them unattended. Live rodents can injure the snake, sometimes fatally
• Snakes should be fed prey that is approximately the size of the snake’s width at mid-body

·        Things to remember when feeding your ball python:

• Feed juveniles once a week, adults every 1-2 weeks
• Ideally, snakes should be fed in a separate feeding enclosure so that your ball python snake doesn't associate your hand or the habitat being opened with feeding 
• Ball pythons are nocturnal feeders, so they should preferably be offered meals at night
• Do not use a microwave to defrost frozen rodents, and do not prepare them in the same area that you prepare food. If it is unavoidable, be sure to thoroughly disinfect the area. See the Feeding Frozen/Thawed Foods Care Sheet for more information
• Fresh, clean, water should be available at all times in a large enough bowl for your ball python to soak in

Ball python care

• Snakes will regularly shed their skin. Healthy snakes should shed skin in one complete piece   
• Ensure the humidity in the habitat is at an appropriate level (70% while shedding) to allow your ball python to shed properly 
• A shallow, open bowl of water, in which snakes can soak, or a piece of damp paper towel or sphagnum moss, plus daily misting with warm water, can aid in shedding
• The eye caps (called spectacles) should come off during shedding, if they do not, don’t remove them on your own and instead seek veterinary care

 

Tank mates

Ball pythons are typically docile with their pet parents but are often antisocial with other snakes and are best housed alone. Housing them with other ball pythons may lead to stress and competition and could negatively affect their eating patterns. 

Health

Signs of a healthy ball python

• Active and alert
• Clear eyes (except when shedding)
• Eats regularly
• Good body composition
• Healthy, supple, smooth skin
• Regularly sheds skin in one complete piece
• Free of mites and ticks

Red flags (If you notice any of these signs, contact your veterinarian.)

• Unusually frequent or infrequent shedding
• Vomiting
• Lethargic or reluctant to eat
• Abnormal feces
• Bumps or spots on skin
• Red/pink color to skin possibly indicating systemic infection
• Labored breathing
• Bubbles from mouth or nose
• Difficulty shedding or shedding skin in pieces
• White, cheesy substance in mouth

 

•          Care Difficulty – Beginner
•           Average Life Span - 8-12 years with proper care
•          Average Adult Size - Up to 24 inches long, head to tail
•           Diet – Omnivore

    Minimum/ideal Habitat Size- 40-gallon tank for an adult Minimum, Ideal 120-gallon tank

• Décor - Provide a hiding area and branches for climbing and basking. A hide box should contain moist substrate such as damp sphagnum moss to aid in shedding. Moss must be replaced frequently to prevent mold from developing
• Substrate - Provide commercially available substrate or reptile carpet. Gravel, wood chips and walnut shells are not recommended. If using a particulate matter bedding such as sand, feed your reptile in a dish or feeding tank to reduce the ingestion of substrate, which can cause potentially life-threatening gastrointestinal tract obstructions
• Temperature – A temperature gradient (100°F for the warm end and 75°F for the cool end) should be provided. Temperatures should not fall lower than 70°F at night. Use an incandescent light or ceramic heater as the primary heat source at one end of the tank to establish a basking zone during the day. Thermometers should be used to monitor tank temperatures. A red heat bulb or ceramic heat emitter may be necessary at night to provide adequate heat without light if temps fall below 70°F.
• Lighting - To produce vitamin D in their skin to enable them to absorb dietary calcium and build strong bones, bearded dragons require a full-spectrum ultraviolet (UV) bulb with UVB rays for 10 to 12 hours a day. The light should be approximately 1-2 feet away from the lizard and should be replaced every six months, as its potency wanes
• Humidity - Maintain at 30 to 50% humidity and monitor with a humidity gauge. Mist lizards and décor as needed to maintain humidity in this range. When humidity falls too low, lizards will retain shed skin. To decrease humidity in a tank, improve ventilation. To increase ventilation, increase the frequency of misting and add live plants to the habitat.

 

Cleaning your habitat

Thoroughly clean and disinfect water and food bowls daily. The habitat should be spot-cleaned daily to remove droppings and discarded food. Thoroughly clean the habitat at least once a week:

• Place bearded dragon in a secure habitat
• Scrub the tank and furnishings with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution
• Rinse the tank and all furnishings thoroughly with water, removing all traces of habitat cleaner or bleach smell
• Dry the tank and furnishings before putting the bearded dragon back in the habitat

 

What do bearded dragons eat?

Bearded dragons are omnivores (requiring both plant and animal matter). A well-balanced juvenile bearded dragon diet consists of:

• 70% gut-loaded (recently fed) insects such as crickets, mealworms, hornworms, waxworms, calciworms, roaches , and superworms and 30% mixed vegetables (such as deep leafy greens, squash, carrots, greens) daily and fruit (including kiwi, banana, mango, papaya, apple) on occasions.
• May also be supplemented with a commercially available bearded dragon food
• As bearded dragons reach adulthood, they should eat fewer insects and more vegetation daily consisting of 70% veggies and 30% Insects.

Things to remember when feeding your bearded dragon:

• Fresh, clean water should be available at all times
• Feed daily
• Insects fed should not be longer than the space between the bearded dragon’s eyes
• Chop vegetables and fruits to make them easier to eat
• In general, juveniles are growing and need to eat more live food; adults can eat more vegetation
• Vitamin supplementation should be alternated every day by sprinkling food lightly with powdered calcium without vitamin D and calcium with vitamin D, plus a multivitamin supplement once a week.  Insects can be lightly dusted with calcium and vitamin supplements by placing them inside a plastic bag with the powdered supplements and shaking the bag lightly to coat the insects prior to feeding them to the lizard
• Vegetables and fruits not eaten within 10 hours should be discarded
• Offer food from a shallow dish or feeding tank rather than feeding off the habitat floor to lessen accidental ingestion of substrate

 

 

 

Care

Bearded dragons regularly shed their skin; ensure humidity of habitat is at appropriate level to allow proper shedding. To facilitate shedding, soak lizard in warm water in a large container that allows the bearded dragon to immerse their entire body while keeping their head out of water, or provide a shed box, a hide box with moist sphagnum moss. Be sure to replace the water in the soaking dish often to keep it clean and change the moss frequently to prevent mold from developing.

 

Habitat mates

Male bearded dragons are territorial and should be housed separately. Males and females housed together will likely breed, and females should not be housed with males until they are at least 2 years old or they may have difficulty laying eggs.  Do not house different reptile species together.

 

Health 

Signs of a healthy bearded dragon

• Active and alert
• Clear, bright eyes with no swelling or discharge
• Full, muscular tail
• Supple skin with no sores, swellings or discoloration
• Droppings are firm, not runny or bloody
• Eats and passes stool regularly
• Clear nose and vent

 

Red flags (If you notice any of these signs, contact your veterinarian.)

• Weight loss or decreased appetite
• Discharge or bubbles from eyes, mouth or nose
• Lesions, swelling or discoloration of skin or retained shed 
• Lethargy
• Sneezing, runny nose, difficulty breathing
• Weakness or paralysis of limbs
• Runny or bloody stool or lack of stool 

•            Care Difficulty – Good for beginner snake hobbyists
•            Average Life Span – Up to 20+ years with proper care
•            Average Adult Size – 4 to 6 feet long
•            Diet – Carnivore

       Minimum Habitat Size  - 10-20 gallons for juvenile corn snakes. 20-40 gallons for adult corn snakes. Corn snakes reach adult size in 2-3 years. You will need to increase the size of your corn snake’s habitat as they grow.

Habitat size

A young snake may live in a 10-gallon tank (or larger if possible) for the first few months as it is an appropriately sized and shaped habitat for a baby colubrid to accommodate normal behavior and exercise. Corn snakes reach adult size in 2-3 years. You will need to increase the size of your corn snake’s habitat as they grow. 

Adults require a tank with a secure, locking lid to prevent escape. Since habitats should be large enough for an adult corn snake to stretch out fully, a 40-gallon breeder or larger tank is recommended.

 

Building your habitat

• Substrate - Paper-based bedding, reptile carpet and Aspen shavings can be used as bedding. If Aspen is used, it must be changed weekly or more often as needed to prevent it from becoming excessively wet or soiled. Pine and cedar should not be used as bedding, as they contain oils that can irritate corn snakes’ skin
• Décor - Provide a hiding area and a place where your corn snake can regulate their body temperature by retreating from a direct basking area. A synthetic or natural wood hide log large enough for your snake to fit inside is appropriate. Although terrestrial, a climbing branch can provide a way for your corn snake to exercise. Plants and a background can also be added to complement the aesthetics of your habitat
• Temperature - Temperature gradient (85°F for the warm end; low 70s°F in the cool end). Radiant heat is recommended with an over-the-tank basking heat bulb and/or under-tank heater. Temperatures in the tank should be monitored daily with at least two thermometers (one in the cool zone and one in the basking zone) or with a point-and-shoot thermometer
• Humidity - Maintain 40-60% humidity; higher (70%) during shedding. A shallow open bowl of water, or a piece of moist paper towel or sphagnum moss, and daily misting with warm water can aid in shedding
• Lighting - Provide 8-12 hours of light daily. All snakes benefit from exposure to UVA/UVB light during the day to help improve immune system function and to promote normal health and behavior. Don't leave white light on at all times; a nocturnal or infrared light should be used at night

 

Cleaning your corn snake’s habitat

Thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat at least once a week: 

• Place snake in a secure habitat
• Scrub the tank and furnishings with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution
• Allow the bleach solution to remain in the tank for 10 minutes before rinsing to ensure adequate disinfection; follow the habitat cleaner manufacturer's instructions
• Rinse thoroughly with water, removing all traces of bleach smell
• Dry the tank and furnishings completely and add clean substrate before returning décor and corn snake to tank

What Do Corn Snakes Eat

A well-balanced corn snake diet consists of:

• Snakes should be fed prey that is approximately the size of the snakes’ width at mid-body
• Appropriately sized frozen rodents, thawed or warmed to above room temperature
• Start with pinkies for juvenile snakes and increase in size to larger mice and rats for adult corn snakes
• Live prey should not be fed, as rodents commonly bite snakes and the wounds can lead to life-threatening infections
• If feeding your snake live rodents, do not leave them unattended. Live rodents can injure the snake, sometimes fatally

Things to remember when feeding your corn snake:

• Fresh, clean, water should be available at all times in a large enough bowl for your corn snake to soak in
• Feed juveniles once a week, adults every 1-2 weeks
• Corn snakes are primarily diurnal and are most active during the day. Ideally, they should be offered meals during the daytime
• Feed in a separate enclosure so your corn snake doesn't associate your hand or their habitat being opened with feeding
• Do not use a microwave to defrost frozen rodents and do not prepare them in the same area that you prepare food. If it is unavoidable, be sure to thoroughly disinfect the area. 

Corn snake care

• Snakes will regularly shed their skin; ensure humidity of habitat is at an appropriate level (70% while shedding) to allow your corn snake to shed properly. Normally, snakes should shed their skin all in one piece 
• Never try to remove eye caps (called spectacles) by yourself. Seek veterinary care
• Because all reptiles are potential carriers of infectious diseases, such as salmonella, always wash your hands before and after handling your reptile or habitat contents to help prevent the potential spread of disease
• Pregnant women, children under the age of 5, senior citizens and people with weakened immune systems should contact their physician before purchasing or caring for reptiles and should consider having a pet other than a reptile

 

Tank mates

While corn snakes can be very docile with pet parents once they are socialized, they prefer to be housed alone. If housing more than one corn snake together, they must be fed in individual enclosures.

Health

Signs of a healthy corn snake

• Active and alert
• Clear eyes (except when shedding)
• Eats regularly
• Good body composition
• Healthy, supple, smooth skin
• Regularly sheds skin in one complete piece
• Free of mites and ticks

Red flags (If you notice any of these signs, contact your veterinarian.)

• Unusually frequent or infrequent shedding
• Vomiting
• Lethargic or reluctant to eat
• Abnormal feces
• Bumps or spots on skin
• Red/pink color to skin possibly indicating systemic infection
• Labored breathing
• Bubbles from mouth and nose
• Difficulty shedding or shedding skin in pieces
• White, cheesy substance in mouth

 

 

•       Care Difficulty – Beginner
•       Average Life Span - Up to 10-20 years with proper care 
•       Average Adult Size - 6-9 inches long
•       Diet – Insectivore

·       Minimum/Ideal Aquarium Size - 10-gallon tank for juvenile; 20-gallon tank for adult

•  Décor – Provide multiple hiding areas with nontoxic live or artificial plants, branches and logs for climbing on, and cork bark for hiding under. Hide boxes should contain moist sphagnum moss or vermiculite to provide humidity essential for proper shedding
• Substrate – Provide commercially available substrate or reptile carpet. Gravel, wood chips and walnut shells are not recommended. If using a particulate matter bedding such as sand, feed your reptile in a dish or feeding tank to reduce the ingestion of substrate, which can cause potentially life-threatening gastrointestinal tract obstructions
• Lighting – In nature, leopard geckos are nocturnal, but studies have shown that pet leopard geckos do better when provided with ultraviolet (UV)B light to help them synthesize vitamin D in their skin and absorb dietary calcium for strong bones. UV light should be provided for 10 to 12 hours a day, and UV bulbs should be replaced every six months, as their potency wanes. An incandescent bulb, ceramic bulb or under-tank heater can be used to provide heat. Hot rocks should not be used, as they can get too hot and burn reptiles sitting on them
• Temperature – Like other reptiles, leopard geckos are ectotherms who rely on their environmental temperature to regulate their body temperature. Therefore, a temperature gradient (85-90°F for the warm end/basking area and 75-80°F for the cool end) should be provided and monitored using thermometers
• Humidity - Proper humidity is essential for leopard geckos, as they frequently retain shed skin around their eyes (preventing them from seeing their prey and eating) and their toes (constricting blood circulation) when habitat humidity is too low. A shallow water dish large enough for a leopard gecko to soak in should be offered. In addition, at least one humid hide (also called a shed box) should be provided to help with shedding. These can be purchased or made by cutting a door into a plastic storage container. Humid hides should be filled with moist sphagnum moss and be placed in the warmer end of the habitat to encourage evaporation. Moss must be checked frequently to ensure it stays moist and doesn’t become moldy. While humidity levels in the humid hide should be high to promote normal shedding, overall habitat humidity outside the hide should remain below 50% and be monitored with a humidity gauge, or geckos may develop respiratory tract and skin infections

 

Cleaning your habitat

Thoroughly clean and disinfect water and food bowls daily. The habitat should be spot-cleaned daily to remove droppings and discarded food. Thoroughly clean the habitat at least once a week:

• Place leopard gecko in a secure habitat
• Scrub the tank and furnishings with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution
• Rinse the tank and all furnishings thoroughly with water, removing all traces of habitat cleaner or bleach smell
• When the tank and furnishings are completely dry, add clean substrate
• Put furnishings and the leopard gecko back in the habitat

 

Feeding

A well-balanced leopard gecko diet consists of:

•  Insects, including crickets, roaches, mealworms, superworms, hornworms, calciworms and waxworms. Use gut-loaded (recently fed) crickets no larger than the space between the gecko's eyes. Living insects are more nutritious for geckos than freeze-dried ones, plus geckos enjoy hunting and catching living prey.

 

Things to remember when feeding your leopard gecko:

•  Fresh, clean water should be available at all times
•  Feed juvenile leopard geckos daily. Adults may be fed every other day
•  Sprinkle food every other day with a small pinch of powdered calcium supplement with vitamin D3, alternating with powdered calcium supplement without vitamin D3, plus a small pinch of multivitamin supplement once a week
•  Offer insects to geckos just one or two at a time, and be sure insects are eaten as you add them. Never leave uneaten insects in the habitat with the leopard gecko as they may chew on the gecko’s skin if they are left uneaten

 

 

 

Care

• Juvenile geckos can be easily stressed when handled a lot. While handling helps acclimate a gecko to their pet parent, leopard geckos should not be handled often until they settle into their habitats and are at least 6 inches long
• Never grab them by their tails. Leopard geckos can release their tails if they are grabbed by predators or if their tails are held too aggressively. Although their tail may regrow, it will not resemble their former tail
• Leopard geckos regularly shed their skin. To aid proper shedding, ensure the humidity of their habitat is at the appropriate level and that humid hides and soaking dishes are available

 

Habitat mates

Do not house male leopard geckos together or with males of another reptile species, as they will likely fight. Female leopard geckos may be housed together. A single male leopard gecko may be housed with one to three female geckos if you’re prepared for them to breed.

Health

Signs of a healthy leopard gecko

• Active and alert
• Clear, bright eyes without swelling or discharge
• Full, muscular tail
• Does not hide for extensive periods
• Supple skin without sores, swellings or discoloration
• Droppings are firm, not runny or bloody
• Eats and passes stool regularly
• Clear nose and vent

Red flags (If you notice any of these signs, contact your veterinarian.)

• Weight loss or decreased appetite
• Discharge or bubbles from eyes, mouth or nose
• Lesions, swelling or discoloration of skin
• Retained shed on toes, eyelids or limbs
• Lethargy
• Labored breathing
• Paralysis or weakness of limbs
• Runny or bloody stool or lack of stool

 

 

•        Care Difficulty – Beginner
•       Average Life Span  - 10–15 years with proper care 
•      Average Adult Size – Males 3–4" long; females 4–8" inches long 
•       Diet – Carnivore
•     n Minimum Habitat Size - 10–20 gallons

Habitat size 

An appropriately sized (10–20 gallon) glass habitat will allow juvenile to adult Pacman frogs to behave normally and to burrow. Horned frogs reach adult size in 6–12 months under ideal conditions; upgrade your habitat size as your frog grows. 

Tanks should be wider than they are tall and have a screen top to allow proper ventilation and prevent escape.  

Building your habitat 

• Substrate: For an adult frog, provide 3-4” of deep substrate, such as coconut fiber or sphagnum moss, that is easy for frogs to bury under and that will help maintain humidity. Leaf litter can be used on top of substrate to aid in burrowing and to promote a more natural look. Gravel and rocks are not generally recommended, as they are potentially abrasive to frogs’ delicate skin and may be ingested, leading to fatal gastrointestinal tract obstructions 
• Temperature: Maintain a daytime temperature of 75–83°F and a nighttime temperature of 70–75°F; an under-tank heater may be used, as long as it is regulated by a thermostat to prevent frogs buried in substrate from getting burned. Heat mats should not be used with plastic tanks, as they may damage these habitats. A low wattage (15–25 watt) incandescent bulb also may be used as a heat source, if proper humidity level can be maintained. A red incandescent bulb may be used to provide supplemental heat if necessary 
• Humidity: Maintain humidity at 70–80% by misting substrate as needed every day. Substrate should be damp but not wet. Excess humidity can lead to skin infections, and deficient humidity can lead to dehydration and dormancy 
• Lighting: Low-level UVB lighting is recommended for 10–12 hours a day, and because horned frogs are nocturnal, you may provide a low wattage nocturnal bulb for nighttime viewing, too. Be sure to provide hiding places to allow frogs to hide from light, as needed 
• Water: Provide a shallow, open bowl of filtered water (do not use distilled or tap water), surrounded by plants (such as pothos) that help make a soaking frog less stressed, for frogs to drink from and sit in 

 

Cleaning your Pacman frog habitat  

Thoroughly clean the habitat at least once a week. To safely clean the habitat: 

• Spot clean soiled bedding and discarded food daily from the habitat 
• Place frog in a secure container 
• Scrub the habitat and furnishings with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution  
• Rinse thoroughly with hot water until no residue remains to potentially absorb through your frog’s porous skin 
• Dry the habitat and furnishings completely 
• Add clean substrate and return frog to habitat 

What Do Pacman Frogs Eat 

A well-balanced horned frog diet consists of: 

• A variety of insects, including gut-loaded (recently fed) crickets, Dubia roaches and earthworms, with mealworms and waxworms only as occasional treats because of their high fat content 
• Thawed frozen rodents may be offered to adults; feeding live rodents is not recommended, as they can bite and scratch frogs, inflicting injury 

Things to remember when feeding your horned frog: 

• Due to their painful bite, frogs should be offered prey with tongs 
• Fresh, clean, chlorine-free water should be available at all times 
• Feed juveniles daily and adults 1–2 times a week; don’t feed thawed frozen rodents until your frog reaches adult size. Thawed frozen rodents, such as adult mice or pinkie rats, may be offered every other week to adult horned frogs 
• Since horned frogs like to strike at live prey, they may need to be enticed to eat when fed thawed frozen rodents 
• Sprinkle food with a calcium powder supplement containing vitamin D3 daily and a multivitamin supplement once a week 

Pacman frog care 

• Don’t handle your frog unless necessary, and always wear disposable gloves when handling your frog. Residue or oil on your skin can harm amphibians, and all amphibians secrete toxins from skin that can irritate human skin and mucus membranes 
• Do not allow your frog’s secretions to contact your eyes, mouth or open wounds 
• Use an appropriately sized, small-mesh, soft net to move or block your frog while spot cleaning their habitat 
• Don’t be surprised to see your frog eating their shed skin. When their environmental humidity is too low, their skin thickens to prevent them from becoming dehydrated, and they can look like they are dead. Once humidity rises, they will shed this thick skin, eat it and become more active. 

Pacman frog habitat mates  

House horned frogs separately, and do not house different amphibian species together. Horned frogs may be cannibalistic when housed together. 

Pacman frog health  

Signs of a healthy Pacman frog 

• Active and alert 
• Clear eyes 
• Moist, supple skin free from lesions 
• Stocky-looking, solid body 
• Eats regularly and maintains weight 

Red flags (if you notice any of these signs, contact your veterinarian) 

• Lethargy 
• Skin lesions 
• Loss of appetite 
• Distressed breathing 
• Weight loss 
• Weak leg movements 
• Bloated abdomen 

 

 

•         Care difficulty - Advanced
•          Average Life Span - 2-5+ years with proper care
•          Average adult size - 7-10 inches, depending on species
•         Diet - Insectivorous
•           Minimum habitat size - 24”L x 24”W x 36”H for one adult

Habitat size

Provide an appropriately sized and shaped habitat to accommodate normal activity; chameleons are arboreal species, so vertically oriented habitats with room for climbing are preferable. The minimum size enclosure for a single adult is 24”L x 24”W x 36”H for one adult. Chameleons are best housed individually in well-ventilated aquariums or mesh/screened habitats, with tightly fitting lids to prevent escape, as long as appropriate temperature and humidity levels can be maintained. If using a screened habitat, be sure there are no sharp edges on which chameleons can get injured. Plastic coated or PVC mesh is often safer than metal screening for this reason. Most species of chameleons reach full size by 18 months under ideal conditions.

 

Building your habitat

• Décor - Chameleons can become very stressed if they don’t have adequate hiding spaces. Provide numerous visual barriers with densely planted artificial or live plants (such as ficus, pothos or other nontoxic vegetation), commercially available vines and branches so your chameleon can climb freely throughout the habitat and choose the temperature at which to perch and bask. Branches and vines should be of varying widths appropriate to the size of your chameleon’s feet as they grasp and climb
• Substrate - Because Jackson’s chameleons are housed at high humidity levels, substrates that are easy to clean and less likely to become moldy are best. They also spend very little time on the ground, preferring to climb on branches and vines higher up in the habitat, so they require little to no substrate. Partner with your veterinarian on substrate recommendations if you have a gravid, egg-laying female. Commercially available paper-based substrates and bark are recommended. Small, particle-sized substrates, such as sand, gravel and mulch, should not be used in chameleon habitats, as they commonly irritate chameleons’ eyes and the delicate skin around their mouths. Plus, chameleons often ingest these indigestible substrates and develop potentially life-threatening gastrointestinal tract obstructions
• Temperature - Provide a temperature gradient in the habitat so that chameleons—who are ectotherms whose body temperatures depend on their environmental temperatures—can move around and adjust their body temperatures accordingly. Daytime temperatures should range from 65-85°F for the warm end/basking; nighttime temperatures can reach 55–60°F. Monitor the temperature with at least two thermometers: one in the cool zone and the other in the hot (basking) zone. Heat may be provided by an incandescent or ceramic heat bulb. Heat sources should be attached to thermostats to regulate temperatures. Hot rocks should not be used as a heat source, as they can burn reptiles. Reptiles not kept at the appropriate temperature ranges are more likely to become immunosuppressed and get sick
• Lighting - Chameleons require full-spectrum ultraviolet (UV) lighting for 10–12 hours a day to expose them to UVB rays to enable them to make vitamin D in their skin so that they can absorb dietary calcium. UV bulbs should be turned off at night to establish a clear day-night cycle and changed every six months, as their potency wanes. Chameleons in well-ventilated mesh habitats also can be placed outside in direct sunlight if it is warm enough, as long as they have adequate spots for hiding and shade
• Humidity - Cool climate chameleons require a habitat humidity of 50–100% to stay hydrated and shed properly. Use a humidity gauge to monitor humidity levels. Spraying the enclosure multiple times per day will help maintain humidity and allow chameleons to drink droplets of water from the décor. Commercial drip systems, misters and bubblers also may be used as long as they are cleaned once or twice a month with diluted bleach and rinsed thoroughly to prevent bacteria and mold from growing in them, leading to potential medical problems. Humidifiers are particularly notorious for growing microbes and should be avoided.

Cleaning your habitat

• Thoroughly clean and disinfect water and food bowls and spot-clean the habitat daily to remove droppings
• Thoroughly clean the habitat at least once a week:
• Place the chameleon in a secure habitat
• Scrub the tank and furnishings with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution
• Rinse the tank and all furnishings thoroughly with water, removing all traces of habitat cleaner or bleach smell
• Dry the tank and furnishings and add clean substrate before putting the chameleon back into the habitat

Feeding

A well-balanced Jackson's chameleon diet consists of:

• A variety of live insects, including gut-loaded (recently fed) crickets, mealworms, superworms, roaches, flies, butterworms, silkworms, hornworms, earthworms and waxworms

Things to remember when feeding your cool climate chameleon:

• Crickets should be no longer than the width of the chameleon’s head
• An open bowl of shallow water may be provided on the floor of the habitat, but chameleons typically don’t drink from standing water and prefer to drink water droplets off plants or habitat screens
• Commercial drip systems, misters and foggers or hand misting 4–5 times per day can provide water on plants for chameleons to drink
• Feed juveniles daily and adults every day to every other day
• Juveniles can be fed as many insects as they will eat at a time, while adults typically eat between 5 and 15 insects every 2–3 days
• Insects may be placed in the habitat for chameleons to catch or may be hand fed, one at a time, to tamer chameleons
• Uneaten insects should be removed from the habitat to prevent them from chewing on and injuring chameleons; alternatively, chameleons may be removed from their habitat and fed in a separate feeding container to monitor appetite and prevent injury from uneaten insects
• Sprinkle food with a calcium supplement containing vitamin D3 every other day for juveniles and twice a week for adults
• Sprinkle food with a multivitamin once a week; because chameleons cannot make vitamin A from its precursor, beta carotene, be sure the multivitamin supplement contains preformed vitamin A so your chameleon doesn't develop vitamin A deficiency

Care

• Chameleons regularly shed their skin; ensure habitat humidity is at an appropriate level to allow proper shedding
• If chameleons retain small pieces of shed skin on their feet, toes or heads, increase habitat humidity to aid in shedding

 

Habitat mates

• House adult Jackson’s chameleons separately
• Do not house different reptile species together

Health

Signs of a healthy chameleon

• Active, alert and interested in their habitat and in humans
• Clear eyes, nose and mouth
• Body and tail are filled out
• Skin is supple and smooth without lesions, discoloration, swelling or retained shed skin
• Tongue protrudes and retracts from mouth normally
• Eats and passes stool regularly
• Grasps habitat décor and climbs normally

Red flags (If you notice any of these signs, contact your veterinarian)

• Weight loss or decreased appetite
• Mucus or discharge from mouth, eyes, or nose
• Swelling of limbs
• Lethargy
• Inability to close the mouth or retract the tongue
• Twitching/tremors/seizures
• Bumps, sores, wounds, discolorations, or abrasions on skin
• Labored breathing
• Weakness or paralysis of limbs
• Abnormal feces
• Nonrotating eye(s)
• Swollen abdomen

 

•                Care Difficulty – Beginner
•                Average Life Span – Up to 5 to 8 years with proper care
•     Average Adult Size – 6 to 8 inches long
•     Diet- Insectivore
•    Minimum Habitat Size – 10-gallon

Habitat size

An appropriately sized habitat that can accommodate normal behaviors and exercise is needed to house your scorpion. A secure lid is required, as scorpions are able to squeeze out of small spaces. With scorpions, bigger is not always better, as too large of a habitat can make it difficult for them to catch their prey.

 

Building your habitat

• Décor - Provide climbing and hiding areas using nontoxic plants, branches or logs. Keep hiding areas away from the heat source 
• Substrate - Mulch-type substrate such as coconut fiber bedding, reptile bark or dampened sphagnum moss approximately 2 inches deep allows your scorpion to burrow and helps maintain humidity
• Lighting - Photoperiod lighting is required for 8 to 12 hours a day. Don’t leave white light on at all times; use a low-wattage nocturnal or infrared light to view scorpion at night
• Temperature – Maintain a temperature gradient of 90°F for the warm end and 78°F for the cool end. An under-tank heater or low-wattage incandescent bulb on the warm end is recommended
• Humidity - Maintain 60 to 80% humidity by misting as needed every day

 

Cleaning your habitat

Thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat at least once a month or more often if needed:

• Place scorpion in a secure habitat using gloves and forceps to gently move the scorpion
• Scrub the tank and furnishings with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution
• Rinse thoroughly with water, removing all traces of habitat cleaner or bleach smell
• Dry the tank and furnishings completely and add clean substrate before placing the scorpion back into their habitat

What Do Scorpions Eat

A well-balanced scorpion diet consists of:

• A variety of insects, including gut-loaded (recently fed) crickets, Discoid roaches, mealworms, superworms, hornworms and waxworms

Things to remember when feeding your scorpion:

• Feed juveniles daily, adults every other day
• Fresh, clean, chlorine-free water should be available at all times. Use a shallow water bowl to prevent drowning
• Since they are nocturnal, feeding should occur at night
• Dust insects with calcium supplement daily and once or twice a week with a vitamin and mineral supplement
• Remove uneaten crickets, as they may attack a resting scorpion
• Do not feed a scorpion while they are molting—wait until their exoskeleton hardens

Care

• Mist habitat daily to maintain high humidity and prevent dehydration. Change water daily
• Scorpions do not like to be handled. It is especially important to not handle them until their exoskeleton has fully hardened after a molt 
• Remove the scorpion’s exoskeleton from the habitat after they molt

 

Tank mates 

While similar-sized scorpions can sometimes be housed together if the habitat is large enough, caution should be taken as they may fight. This is especially likely among males. Therefore, it is recommended that they be housed individually. Do not house different invertebrate species together.

Health 

Signs of a healthy scorpion

• Eats regularly
• Body and tail are rounded and full
• Active and alert
• Healthy, hard exoskeleton (when not molting)

Red flags (If you notice any of these signs, contact your veterinarian.)

• Swollen limbs
• Lethargy
• Bumps, sores or abrasions
• Weight loss
• Abnormal feces
• Shriveled appearance
• Dull exoskeleton 

 

 

•     Care Difficulty – Moderate
•  Average Life Span – Up to 15+ years with proper care depending on species
•    Average Adult Size – Up to 24 inches long, depending on species
•  Diet – Blue-tongues – omnivore
  African fire skink – carnivore
•  Minimum Habitat Size - 36" long x 18” wide x 10” high for one adult

Habitat size

An appropriately sized and shaped habitat to accommodate normal behavior and exercise is needed. A juvenile skink may be housed in a 20-gallon aquarium. A glass tank may be used to house an adult skink, as long as it is well ventilated. The minimum size habitat for an adult is 36” long x 18” wide x 10” high. The habitat should have a tightly fitting mesh top to prevent escape. Skinks will reach adult size in 1 to 3 years, depending on species and under ideal conditions; upgrade habitat size as your reptile grows.

 

Building your habitat 

• Habitat - Provide a hiding area and substrate for skink to burrow in. Maintain greater than 70% humidity by misting and soaking in a shallow bowl of warm water every day to help ensure the skink stays hydrated. Provide a humid hide box (commercially available hide or upside-down plastic box with a cutout door containing damp sphagnum moss) to increase humidity for proper shedding. A humidity gauge (hygrometer) should be used to monitor humidity levels. 
• Décor - Skinks are more comfortable when they have plants, low rocks and logs where they can hide if they want. However, as they need a lot of surface area to move around, don’t overcrowd their habitats with décor  
• Substrate - Commercially available, pelleted, paper-based bedding, reptile carpet, coconut fiber, cypress mulch mixed with damp sphagnum moss, or Aspen shavings can be used as substrate. Cedar chips, walnut shells, orchid bark and sand are all indigestible if consumed and can potentially lead to life-threatening gastrointestinal tract obstruction. Substrate should be 2 to 3" deep as skinks love to dig and burrow 
• Temperature – Skinks require a daytime temperature gradient (95 to 100°F in the basking zone to 75 to 85°F for the cool zone). Nighttime temperatures should not fall below 70°F. There should be at least two thermometers or a point-and-shoot temperature gun to monitor habitat temperatures. Use an incandescent light or ceramic heat bulb as a primary heat source during the day, with a ceramic heat bulb or a red incandescent bulb at night. Do not use a hot rock for heat, as reptiles who sit on them commonly get burned  
• Lighting – Skinks require full-spectrum ultraviolet (UV) light for 10 to 12 hours a day to ensure they receive adequate UVB exposure to make vitamin D in their skin so that they can absorb dietary calcium.  Skinks without adequate UV light exposure are prone to developing metabolic bone disease with skeletal deformities, bone fractures and potential death

 

Cleaning your habitat

Thoroughly clean and disinfect water and food bowls daily. The habitat should be spot-cleaned daily to remove droppings and discarded food. Thoroughly clean the habitat at least once a week: 

• Place skink in a secure habitat 
• Scrub the tank and furnishings with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution 
• Rinse the tank and all furnishings thoroughly with water, removing all traces of habitat cleaner or bleach smell 
• Dry the tank and furnishings before putting the skink back in the habitat  

 

Feeding  

What to feed your tropical skink: 

• Blue-tongued species are omnivores and eat:  
• 50% fresh vegetables such as leafy green vegetables (collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens), squash, peas, Brussel sprouts, carrots and bell peppers 
• 40% protein. Such as insects (including gut-loaded [recently fed] crickets, roaches, earthworms and mealworms), hard-boiled eggs and frozen/thawed feeder rodents for larger skinks
• 10% fresh fruit such as mango, papaya, cantaloupe, figs and berries 
• African fire skinks are carnivores and eat a variety of insects, including gut-loaded  crickets, roaches, waxworms, butterworms, silkworms and mealworms. An occasional frozen/thawed pinkie mouse may be given as a treat. Adult fire skinks should be fed every two to three days
• Skinks should, in general, be offered as great a variety in their diet as possible so they don’t get bored and stop eating

Things to remember when feeding your tropical skink:

• Fresh, clean water should be available at all times 
• Feed juveniles daily and adults every two to three days 
• Chop vegetables and fruits for blue-tongued skinks to make them easier to eat 
• Vitamin supplementation should be alternated every day by sprinkling food lightly with powdered calcium without vitamin D and calcium with vitamin D, plus a multivitamin supplement once a week. Insects can be lightly dusted with calcium and vitamin supplements by placing them inside a plastic bag with the powdered supplements and shaking the bag lightly to coat the insects prior to feeding them to the lizard 
• Vegetables and fruits not eaten within 10 hours should be discarded 
• Offer food from a shallow dish or feeding tank rather than feeding off the habitat floor to lessen accidental ingestion of substrate

 

Tropical skink care

Skinks regularly shed their skin; ensure humidity of habitat is at the appropriate level (40 to 60%) to allow proper shedding. To facilitate shedding, soak in warm water in a large, shallow container that allows the skink to immerse their entire body but that is easy to climb out of, as skinks are not good swimmers. Alternatively, provide a shed box, a hide box with damp sphagnum moss that will aid in shedding.

 

Habitat mates 

House adult skinks separately, and do not house different reptile species together. Occasionally, a male/female pair or two females may be housed together, but they must be monitored closely for fighting.

 

Health  

Signs of a healthy skink 

• Active and alert 
• Clear, bright eyes with no swelling or discharge 
• Full, muscular tail 
• Supple skin with no sores, swellings or discoloration 
• Droppings are firm, not runny or bloody 
• Eats and passes stool regularly 
• Clear nose and vent 

Red flags (If you notice any of these signs, contact your veterinarian.) 

• Weight loss or decreased appetite 
• Discharge or bubbles from eyes, mouth or nose 
• Lesions, swelling or discoloration of skin or retained shed  
• Lethargy 
• Sneezing, runny nose, difficulty breathing 
• Weakness or paralysis of limbs 
• Runny or bloody stool or lack of stool 

 

 

•           Care Difficulty – Moderate
•        Average Life Span – Depending on the species and with proper care: Up to 30 years (females) Up to 7 years (males)
•           Average Adult Size – 2 to 10 inches, depending on species
•          Diet – Carnivore/insectivore
•          Minimum Habitat Size - 10-gallon

Habitat size

An appropriately sized and shaped habitat at least three times their leg-span long and two times their leg-span wide is required to accommodate normal behavior and exercise. Minimum height for ground dwellers should be the length of the tarantula. Tree-dwelling tarantulas require a 10-inch minimum height.

 

Building your habitat 

• Décor - Provide a place to hide such as a half log. Tree-dwelling tarantulas also need cork bark, branches and plants to build their webs.  
• Substrate - Mulch-type substrate such as coconut fiber bedding, reptile bark or dampened sphagnum moss. Avoid gravel and artificial turf, which is too harsh for the skin 
• Temperature - 68 to 82°F, depending on species. Use of an under-tank heater can help maintain appropriate habitat temperature 
• Lighting - Keep in a darker part of the room away from sunlight. Avoid incandescent lights, which can dry out a tarantula. Use a low-wattage nocturnal or infrared light to watch your tarantula after dark 
• Humidity - Maintain 40 to 90% humidity, depending on species, by misting as needed every day 

 

Cleaning your habitat 

Thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat at least once a month, or more often if needed:  

• Place tarantula in a secure habitat 
• Scrub the tank and furnishings with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution 
• Rinse thoroughly with water, removing all traces of habitat cleaner or bleach smell 
• Dry the tank and furnishings and add clean substrate before placing the tarantula back in their habitat 

What Do Tarantulas Eat

A well-balanced tarantula diet consists of:

• Appropriately sized live insects such as gut-loaded (recently fed) crickets, mealworms, superworms, hornworms and roaches 
• Some species may eat thawed frozen pinkie mice

Things to remember when feeding your tarantula:

• Fresh, clean, chlorine-free water should be available at all times (in a shallow bowl). Your tarantula may not drink from a bowl but will rely on moisture on plants 
• Feed juveniles daily, adults every other day. Since they are nocturnal, feeding should occur at night 
• Be sure that food is smaller than the tarantula. Remove any uneaten live food as it may cause injury to a resting tarantula 
• Replace water daily 

 

Care

Handling tarantulas is not recommended. If feeling threatened, they may bite or even run and fall. A short fall can cause a serious or even fatal injury.

When tarantulas molt, they lie on their back with their feet up in the air. Juveniles molt about four times a year and adults once a year. They may stop eating up to two weeks before a molt; do not disturb during this time. Be sure to remove all live food from enclosure, as even a cricket could harm them during this period.

 

Tank mates 

Pink toe tarantulas are one species of tarantula that can sometimes be kept in groups if the habitat is large enough and all are well fed. House other tarantula species separately and do not house different invertebrate species together.

 

Health 

Signs of a healthy tarantula

• Eats regularly
• Healthy molt
• Active and alert
• Rounded abdomen
• Free of parasites

Red flags (If you notice any of these signs, contact your veterinarian.)

• Shriveled abdomen
• Bleeding from injury to leg or abdomen
• Very slow or uncoordinated movements
• Getting stuck in a molt
• Loss of appetite that is not associated with molt

 

 

 

•         Care Difficulty – Intermediate
•         Average Life Span – Up to 50+ years with proper care, depending on the species
•         Average Adult Size – 9-14 inches long, depending on the species
•         Diet - Omnivore
•         Minimum Habitat Size  - Minimum 3’ x 1.5’ for one juvenile Minimum 3’ x 6’ x 16” for one adult

Habitat size

These tropical tortoises’ relatively large size requires them to have ample space to explore and exercise. A single juvenile needs a minimum habitat size of 3’ x 1.5’, while an adult requires a minimum habitat size of 3’ x 6’. If not covered with a securely fitting screen lid to prevent escape, habitat walls should be at least 16 inches high to hinder climbing out. Climate permitting, these tortoises should be housed outdoors so they have access to fresh air and direct sunlight. Outdoor enclosures should be sturdy with opaque walls to lessen the temptation to escape. Walls should extend a few inches below ground level to help prevent tortoises from digging out. 

Under ideal conditions, these tortoises will grow rapidly over five to 10 years and then growth will slow.

 

Building your habitat

• Décor – Tortoises need hiding areas (such as commercially available hide boxes and areas of dense vegetation or hay in which to burrow) to feel secure and to find shelter from the heat. If housing more than one tortoise in an enclosure, provide multiple hide boxes. Tortoises also need an easily accessible shallow bowl of water in which they can soak and drink. Water should not be too deep, or tortoises can drown. Large flat rocks can be provided for tortoises to climb on and wear down their nails
• Humidity- Maintain habitat humidity at 70 to 90% by misting daily as needed, or use a commercially available fogger or misting system for larger habitats. Monitor humidity with a humidity gauge. Adequate humidity is needed for tortoises to stay hydrated and for proper respiratory tract health
• Substrate – Tropical tortoises need substrate that will hold humidity and that is mobile so that they can dig in it. Cypress mulch, coconut fiber, pelleted paper-based bedding and untreated peat moss all may be used as substrate and should be at least 4 inches deep to allow digging and burrowing. For large outdoor enclosures, fertilizer- and pesticide-free soil may be used, as long as tortoises are fed from feeding stations off the ground to help prevent accidental ingestion of substrate. Tortoises commonly ingest small-particle-size substrates such as soil, sand and fine bark, which are indigestible if consumed and can lead to life-threatening gastrointestinal tract obstruction
• Temperature – Tortoises require a temperature gradient to regulate their body temperatures. Daytime temperatures should range from 85 to 95°F in the warm/basking zone to 75 to 80°F in the cool zone, with nighttime temperatures not lower than the low 70s°F. Monitor temperatures with at least two thermometers. Use an incandescent light or ceramic heat bulb (attached to a thermostat to regulate temperatures) as a primary heat source. Hot rocks should not be used as a heat source, as they can burn reptiles
• Lighting – Provide full-spectrum ultraviolet(UV)B rays for 10 to 12 hours a day to expose tortoises to UVB rays to enable them to make vitamin D in their skin so that they can absorb dietary calcium. An incandescent day bulb, along with a UV bulb, also provides clear distinction between day and nighttime for tortoises to perform their normal behaviors. Change UV bulbs every six months, as their potency wanes Tortoises housed outside receive UVB exposure through direct sunlight

Cleaning your habitat

• Thoroughly clean and disinfect water and food bowls daily. The habitat should be spot-cleaned daily to remove droppings and discarded food. Thoroughly clean the habitat at least once a week:
• Place the tortoise in a secure habitat
• Scrub the tank and furnishings with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution
• Rinse the tank and all furnishings thoroughly with water, removing all traces of habitat cleaner or bleach smell
• Dry the tank and furnishings and add clean substrate before putting tortoise back into the habitat

 

Feeding

A well-balanced tropical tortoise diet consists of:

• A combination of high-calcium greens, plus high-fiber plant matter and smaller amounts of animal protein
• Greens and fiber should make up approximately 70% of their total daily diet. Appropriate greens include dandelion greens, escarole, kale, chicory, clover, endive and mustard greens, plus carrots, carrot tops, cactus, squash, peppers and other vegetables. High-fiber plant matter includes Timothy or alfalfa hay or untreated grass clippings
• Fruit should make up no more than 10% of their total daily diet, including berries, melon, mango and grapes
• Sources of animal protein (not to make up more than 20% of total daily diet) include earthworms, occasional frozen/thawed pinkie mice, hard-boiled eggs and small amounts of low-fat/high-fiber dog food
• Commercially available tortoise diets also may be offered in moderation

Things to remember when feeding your tropical tortoise:

• Fresh, clean water should be available all the time. Tortoises tend to defecate in their water bowls, so bowls should be disinfected and water replenished daily
• The key to keeping tortoises healthy and interested in eating is to provide a variety of food
• Be sure to use calcium without vitamin D, as turtles are sensitive to over-supplementation of vitamin D in their diets
• Feed juvenile tortoises daily and adults every one to two days depending on their age, size and activity level. Finely chop vegetables
• Sprinkle food with calcium supplement without vitamin D daily and a multivitamin supplement once a week
• Discard vegetables and fruits not eaten within 10 hours

 

Care

• When introducing new foods, introduce only one food at a time, and observe tortoises eating from a distance, as tortoises may retreat when being watched
• Mixing new foods in with familiar ones may encourage tortoises to try them

Particularly nervous tortoises may be fed in their hide boxes until they are acclimated

 

Habitat mates

• Cherry-head red-footed tortoises may be housed together in an enclosure. They are not typically territorial, except when males fight over females during breeding season
• Hinge-back tortoises (especially males) are territorial and are often best not housed together. If these tortoises are housed in groups, ample space and hiding places must be present to help tortoises feel secure
• Do not house different tortoise species together

Health

Signs of a healthy tortoise

• Active and alert
• Eats and passes stool regularly
• Smooth, hard shell with no lesions, pitting or soft spots
• Clear, bright eyes with no swelling or discharge
• Supple skin with no sores, lesions, swellings or discoloration
• Clear nose and vent

Red flags (If you notice any of these signs, contact your veterinarian.)

• Discoloration, bumps, soft spots or pitting on shell
• Lesions, swellings or discoloration of skin
• Lethargy
• Abnormal feces
• Difficulty breathing
• Swollen eyes
• Discharge or bubbles from eyes, nose or mouth
• Overgrown beak
• Swelling on the sides of the face, in the area of the ears

 

 

•          Care Difficulty - Intermediate
•         Average Life Span - 5+ years with proper care
•         Average Adult Size - males 18–24 inches long, females 12 inches, depending on species
•         Diet - Omnivorous
•         Minimum Habitat Size - At least 2 feet in each dimension for juveniles; at least 3 feet in each dimension for adults

Habitat size

Veiled chameleons will reach adult size in 9–12 months under ideal conditions; upgrade your habitat size as your reptile grows.

To accommodate normal behavior and exercise, select a habitat with an appropriate size and shape, preferably taller than wide, with screened sides. Chameleons do better in a well-ventilated habitat; rather than glass tanks, habitats constructed of mesh or screen are recommended to improve air flow and prevent mold from developing in the habitat 

 

Building your habitat

Chameleons are arboreal (tree-climbing), so they need vertically oriented habitats with different levels for climbing to regulate their body temperature. 

• Substrate: Generally, substrate is not recommended for chameleon habitats, as it can get moldy from dripping water. Chameleons are also known for eating bedding that is in particles or chunks and developing gastrointestinal tract obstructions as a result; if bedding must be used, stick to reptile carpeting, coconut fiber or paper towels  
• Plants and décor: Create a dense area of nontoxic, real or plastic plants and vines (but not silk, which won’t absorb water) on one side for hiding; create a more open, exposed area of branches for basking on the other side. Live plants will help maintain habitat humidity, which is critical to keeping chameleons hydrated. When selecting branches, compare the width to the size of your chameleon’s feet to be sure they can grab onto the branches. Branches and vines also should have some horizontal sections for your chameleon to perch on easily
• Temperature: Maintain a temperature gradient of 90–95°F on the warm end and 70°F on the cool end); use an incandescent light or ceramic heater as primary heat source. Ideally, the habitat temperature should not fall below 70°F at night.
• Humidity: Maintain less than 60% humidity; mist plants as needed to provide water for your chameleons to drink, even if you have a dripper
• Lighting: To ensure your reptile is making vitamin D in their skin so they can absorb calcium from their food, provide UVB rays with full-spectrum lighting for 10–12 hours a day. Place a horizontal branch approximately 6–8 inches below the UV bulb so your chameleon can while for basking. An incandescent day bulb can be used for the basking area during daylight hours only; use a ceramic heater or a nocturnal or red incandescent at all hours to help maintain temperature within recommended range. UV bulbs should be changed every 6 months to ensure adequate ongoing UV exposure as the potency of the bulb wanes

 

Cleaning your veiled chameleon’s habitat 

Thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat at least once a week. To safely clean the habitat:

• Place chameleon in an additional secure habitat or carrier
• Scrub the tank and furnishings with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution
• Rinse thoroughly with water to remove all traces of the reptile habitat cleaner or bleach smell
• Dry the tank and furnishings completely 
• Add clean substrate (if you use substrate) and décor items back into the habitat before returning the chameleon to the habitat

What do Veilded Chameleons Eat

A well-balanced veiled chameleon diet consists of:

• A variety of insects, including gut-loaded crickets (recently fed with high-calcium foods, such as mustard greens, collard greens, squash and commercially available cricket diets), roaches, mealworms, hornworms, CalciWorms and waxworms
• Dark, leafy green vegetables, such as collard greens, mustard greens and deep green lettuces, as well as live plants including pothos, hibiscus, dracaena, schefflera and ficus leaves

Things to remember when feeding your veiled chameleon

• Chameleons will not drink water from a bowl. They rely on moisture on plants for water; mist plants 4–5 times daily for 2 minutes at a time so that leaves are saturated and dripping with water, or use an automatic mister or dripper to do the same. Misting systems also help maintain humidity 
• Do not offer insects that are larger than the width of your chameleon’s head
• Juveniles should be fed once to twice a day; adults can be fed every other day
• Alternate sprinkling food with a calcium supplement that contains vitamin D and one that does not, plus sprinkle food with a multivitamin supplement once a week
• Vegetables not eaten within 12 hours should be discarded

 

Veiled chameleon care

Chameleons regularly shed their skin; ensure the habitat humidity is at an appropriate level to keep your chameleon hydrated to allow proper shedding. To facilitate shedding, be sure to mist your chameleon (avoiding their face) and the plants in the habitat several times a day.

 

Habitat mates for veiled chameleons

House adult veiled chameleons separately, as they are aggressive when housed together, and do not house different reptile species together. If juveniles are housed together, they must be the same size; significant size discrepancies can cause additional stress and potential aggression.

Veiled chameleon health 

Signs of a healthy veiled chameleon

• Active and alert
• Clear eyes
• Body and tail are filled out; ribs are not visible
• Healthy skin (no scabs or crustiness)
• Clear nose and vent
• Eats and passes stool regularly

Red flags (if you notice any of these signs, contact your veterinarian)

• Weight loss or decreased appetite
• Inability to hold abdomen off ground/hunched posture
• Mucus in mouth or nose
• Swelling around eyes 
• Tongue hanging out of mouth
• Obvious curvature or bowing of leg bones and/or spine
• Lethargy
• Bumps, sores or abrasions on skin
• Labored breathing
• Paralysis of limbs or decreased ability to grasp with toes
• Abnormal feces
• Nonrotating eye(s)