Ball Python Care

🐍 Comprehensive Ball Python Care Sheet

The Ball Python (Python regius) is a popular pet snake known for its docile nature and manageable size. With proper care, they can live for 20-30 years.


🏠 Enclosure & Environment

Component Recommendation Notes
Minimum Size Adult: 4' x 2' x 2' (48" x 24" x 24") Larger is always better for enrichment. Hatchlings/Juveniles can start in smaller enclosures (e.g., 20-40 gallons) with plenty of hides.
Cohabitation Never house Ball Pythons together. They are solitary and can experience stress, aggression, or even cannibalism.
Substrate 2-4 inches deep layer of moisture-retaining material. Recommended: Coconut fiber, cypress mulch, or a mix of organic topsoil/coco fiber. Avoid: Cedar, Pine (toxic phenols), and dry materials like reptile carpet or paper towels (hard to maintain humidity).
Hides At least two tight-fitting hides (one on the warm side, one on the cool side). Hides should be just big enough for the snake to curl up and feel secure. Add a humid hide lined with damp sphagnum moss (best placed on the cool side).
Enrichment Sturdy branches, cork logs, and artificial/live plants. Encourage climbing and exploring to promote physical and mental health.
Water A large, heavy water bowl for drinking and soaking. Place on the cool side to reduce rapid evaporation. Change water daily.


🌡️ Temperature & Humidity

Parameter Day Range Night Range Monitoring
Basking Surface 95°F - 104°F  Not applicable (no bright light at night) Infrared Thermometer (Temp Gun)
Warm Hide/Ambient 88°F - 92°F  75°F - 78°F  Digital Probe Thermometer
Cool Hide/Ambient 72°F - 80°F  70°F - 78°F  Digital Probe Thermometer
Humidity 50% - 60% ambient (60% - 80% is ideal for tropical species) Up to 100% (natural nightly spike) Digital Hygrometer (probe on cool side)

Heat & Lighting Sources

  • Primary Heat (Day): Halogen flood bulbs or Deep Heat Projectors (DHPs) connected to a dimming or proportional thermostat.
  • Night Heat (If needed): Ceramic Heat Emitters (CHEs) or Radiant Heat Panels, also on a thermostat.
  • Lighting: Provide 12 hours of light and 12 hours of dark daily. UVB lighting (low-intensity T5 HO 6%) is beneficial for overall health.
  • Crucial Safety: All heat sources must be connected to a thermostat to prevent overheating and burns. Never use heat rocks as they are unregulated and dangerous.

Humidity Management

  • Use a deep, moisture-retaining substrate.
  • Pour water into the corners of the enclosure to soak the bottom layer of substrate.
  • Mist the enclosure as needed, especially in the evening.
  • Ensure the humid hide is kept damp, especially during shed cycles.

🍽️ Feeding & Hydration

Parameter Juvenile (<500g) Adult (>500g)
Prey Size Approx. 10-15% of snake's body weight, or no wider than 1.5x the snake's width at its widest point. Approx. 7-10% of snake's body weight, or no wider than 1.5x the snake's width at its widest point.
Frequency Every 7-10 days Every 14-21 days (up to 4-6 weeks for very large adults >1500g)
Prey Type Mice or rats are common. Variety is highly recommended for complete nutrition. Frozen/thawed (F/T) or Live

Feeding Best Practices

  • Avoid Handling: Do not handle the snake for at least 48 hours after a meal to prevent stress and regurgitation.
  • Water: Provide fresh, clean, chlorine-free water at all times.


✨ Handling & Health

Handling

  • Acclimation: Do not handle a new snake until it has eaten successfully 2-3 consecutive times.
  • Frequency: Handle 1-2 times per week to keep them accustomed to human interaction, but no more than once daily.
  • When to Avoid: Do not handle within 48 hours of feeding or when the snake is "in blue" (eyes are cloudy/dull) before a shed.

Signs of a Healthy Ball Python

  • Active and alert (especially at night).
  • Clear eyes (except when shedding).
  • Eats regularly according to schedule.
  • Sheds skin in one complete piece.
  • Clean vent (cloaca).

Common Health Issues

Issue Primary Cause Solution/Action
Dysecdysis/Retained Shed Low humidity/Dehydration. Correct habitat humidity. Provide a humid hide. See a vet if stuck eye caps persist. Never force shed off.
Respiratory Infection (RI) Low temperatures and/or high, stagnant humidity. Immediately raise temperatures to the correct range. See a vet for antibiotics.
Burns Unregulated heat sources (especially heat rocks/unthermostatted heat mats). Remove dangerous heat source. Seek veterinary attention immediately.


🚨 Veterinary Care

If your Ball Python refuses to eat for an extended period (especially if not shedding) or shows signs of illness (e.g., bubbly mucus around the nose/mouth, lethargy, frequent incomplete sheds, or unusual lumps/bumps), contact a reptile veterinarian immediately.