Jumping Spider Care
Jumping spiders make fascinating and relatively easy pets for beginners due to their small size, captivating behavior, and engaging personalities.
1. Enclosure:
* Size: A good starting size for an adult jumping spider is roughly 6”x6”x9”. While they are small, they are active hunters and appreciate some space to explore. Spiderlings will need smaller enclosures, often a 2.7”x2.7”x2.7” cube.
* Ventilation: This is crucial! Your enclosure needs ample ventilation to prevent stagnant air and mold growth, which can be fatal. Many commercial enclosures have small holes drilled for this purpose.
* Decorations: Provide plenty of interesting objects for your spider to climb, explore, and hide in. This can include small pieces of bark, faux plants, twigs, or even miniature furniture. Jumping spiders often build their silk “hammocks” (retreats) at the top of their enclosures, so consider placing decorations that encourage this.
* Substrate: While some jumping spiders don’t spend much time on the ground, a thin layer of coco peat or moss can help maintain humidity. For species that burrow, like some pebble-mimicking jumping spiders, sand substrate might be appropriate.
2. Temperature & Humidity:
* Temperature: Most jumping spiders thrive at room temperature, generally between 70-85°F (21-29°C). They can tolerate temperature swings and even slightly cooler temperatures (down to 60°F/15°C) for short periods, but prolonged cold will decrease their activity. Avoid direct sunlight or heat mats, as these can quickly overheat the enclosure.
* Humidity: Aim for around 50-60% humidity. For tropical species, 75-80% might be better. You can achieve this by misting the enclosure with a spray bottle a few times a week. It's best to mist the sides of the enclosure so the spider can drink the droplets. Provide a shallow water dish with some gravel or scoria to prevent drowning.
* Molting: During molting (shedding their exoskeleton), it’s important to temporarily increase humidity to about 70% to aid in the shedding process. After molting, return to normal humidity levels.
3. Feeding:
* Diet: Jumping spiders are predators and eat live insects. Their diet should consist of appropriately sized feeder insects – no larger than the spider’s abdomen.
* Feeder Insects: Common feeders include:
* Fruit flies (especially for spiderlings)
* House flies
* Crickets (micro crickets for spiderlings, larger sizes for adults)
* Small roaches
* Mealworms (in moderation)
* Waxworms (in moderation)
* Moths
* Frequency: Spiderlings can be fed daily or every other day, as long as they are willing to eat. Adults typically need to be fed 1-3 times a week, or every 5-10 days depending on their appetite and how plump their abdomen looks.
* Important Note: Always remove uneaten live prey after a few hours, as they can stress or even injure your spider, especially during molting.
4. Cleaning:
* Regularly remove uneaten prey and any waste from the enclosure to prevent mold growth and maintain hygiene.
* Monitor for mold and mites. If present, it may indicate too much humidity or poor ventilation.
5. Handling:
* Jumping spiders are generally docile and can be handled, but always be gentle and mindful of their delicate nature. They rarely bite unless handled roughly.
* Keep handling sessions short (less than 20 minutes) to avoid stressing the spider.
6. General Tips:
* Light: Jumping spiders appreciate daily access to ambient light. Avoid direct sunlight, which can cause overheating.
* Observe: Pay attention to your spider’s behavior. A plump abdomen indicates they are well-fed, while a flattened abdomen suggests they are hungry.
* Patience: If your spider is hiding in its silk hammock, especially during premolt, avoid disturbing it. It’s a vulnerable time for them.
By providing a suitable environment and consistent care, you can enjoy observing your fascinating jumping spider for its lifespan