Emperor Scorpion Care
Emperor Scorpions (Pandinus imperator) are a popular choice for beginner scorpion keepers due to their docile nature and relatively straightforward care requirements.
1. Enclosure (Habitat)
* Size: A 10-gallon glass terrarium (approximately 20”L x 10”W x 12”H) is suitable for one or two adult Emperor Scorpions. While some sources say larger is better, an overly large tank can make it difficult for your scorpion to find food. If housing multiple scorpions, ensure they are similar in size and provide plenty of hides to prevent cannibalism.
* Security: Emperor Scorpions are surprisingly good at squeezing through tight spaces. A secure, tightly-fitting lid is essential to prevent escapes.
* Substrate: Provide at least 2-4 inches (preferably 4-6 inches) of substrate that holds moisture well. Good options include:
* Coconut fiber (Eco Earth, ReptiChip)
* Cypress mulch
* Reptile bark
* Sphagnum moss (especially in one area to keep moist)
* A mixture of peat moss, vermiculite, and coconut fiber.
* Deep substrate allows for burrowing, which is natural behavior and helps with humidity regulation.
* Décor:
* Hides: Provide at least one hide per scorpion. This can be a log, cork bark, half a coconut shell, or even a small ceramic pot. Hides offer a sense of security and a place to retreat.
* Climbing Structures: While primarily terrestrial, branches, logs, and artificial plants can offer climbing opportunities and visual interest.
* Water Dish: A shallow, sturdy water dish should always be available. This provides drinking water and contributes to humidity.
2. Temperature & Humidity
* Temperature: Emperor Scorpions require a temperature gradient.
* Warm End: 80-90°F (27-32°C)
* Cool End: 70-78°F (21-26°C)
* Night Drop: A slight drop in temperature at night is natural and beneficial.
* Heating: An under-tank heat pad on one side of the enclosure is generally the best way to achieve the warm spot. Connect it to a thermostat to regulate the temperature. Avoid overhead heat lamps if possible, as they can dry out the enclosure too quickly. If needed, a low-wattage red or blue heat bulb can be used for supplemental heat, but scorpions prefer darkness.
* Humidity: High humidity is crucial for Emperor Scorpions, mimicking their rainforest habitat. Aim for 60-80% humidity.
* Misting: Mist the enclosure daily with room-temperature, chlorine-free water. You can also strategically place sphagnum moss and keep it moist.
* Water Dish: The shallow water dish also contributes to humidity.
* Monitoring: Use a thermometer and hygrometer to monitor both temperature and humidity levels accurately.
3. Lighting
* Emperor Scorpions are nocturnal and do not require special UVB lighting.
* They do benefit from a consistent day/night cycle (12 hours on, 12 hours off). This can be achieved with ambient room light or a low-wattage LED plant light (6500K) if you have live plants.
* If you want to view your scorpion at night, a low-wattage nocturnal or infrared light can be used. Avoid leaving white light on at all times.
4. Feeding
* Emperor Scorpions are insectivores.
* Staple Diet: Gut-loaded crickets and discoid roaches are excellent staple foods.
* Variety: Offer a variety of appropriately sized insects, such as mealworms, waxworms, superworms, and small hornworms.
* Frequency:
* Juveniles/Scorplings: Small prey 1-2 times per week.
* Adults: 3-4 appropriately sized insects once a week or every 7-14 days.
* When to Feed: Feed your scorpion at night, as they are nocturnal.
* Supplements: While controversial, some keepers dust insects with a calcium supplement daily and a multivitamin/mineral supplement once or twice a week. Gut-loading feeder insects (feeding them nutritious food before offering them to your scorpion) is generally recommended to provide essential nutrients.
* Uneaten Prey: Remove any uneaten live prey items within 4-8 hours, as they can stress or even injure your scorpion, especially during molting.
* Molting: Scorpions will often stop eating for weeks before and after molting. Do not offer food during this time. Wait until their exoskeleton has fully hardened.
5. Handling
* Emperor Scorpions are generally docile, but they can sting or pinch if they feel threatened. Their venom is mild, comparable to a bee sting, but a pinch from their pedipalps (claws) can be painful.
* It’s generally recommended to treat them as a “display pet” rather than a handling pet.
* If you must handle your scorpion (e.g., for cleaning the enclosure), use long, soft-tipped forceps or gloves and move them gently into a secure temporary container. Avoid handling them, especially after molting, until their exoskeleton has fully hardened.
6. Cleaning
* Spot Cleaning: Remove uneaten food and waste daily.
* Full Cleaning: Thoroughly clean and disinfect the entire habitat at least once a month, or more often if you notice mold or a foul odor.
* Safely transfer your scorpion to a temporary container.
* Remove all substrate and décor.
* Scrub the tank and furnishings with a reptile-safe habitat cleaner or a diluted 3% bleach solution.
* Rinse thoroughly with water and allow everything to dry completely before reassembling the enclosure.
Important Considerations:
* Lifespan: With proper care, Emperor Scorpions can live for up to 10 years or more.
* Burrowing: These scorpions love to burrow, so providing deep substrate is essential for their well-being and natural behavior.
* Molting: When your scorpion is molting, it will shed its old exoskeleton. Do not disturb them during this time, and ensure humidity levels are high. Remove the shed exoskeleton once they are done.
* Observation: Spend time observing your scorpion’s behavior. This will help you identify any potential issues early on.
By following these guidelines, you can provide a healthy and stimulating environment for your Emperor Scorpion, making them a rewarding pet for beginners.