Whites Tree Frog Care

White’s Tree Frogs (also known as Dumpy Tree Frogs) are popular and relatively easy to care for, making them a good choice for beginner amphibian keepers.

I. Housing

 * Enclosure Size: A tall glass terrarium is essential due to their arboreal nature.

   * For one adult frog, a 15-20 gallon tall aquarium is recommended.

   * For two to four frogs, an 18x18x24 inch (or similar) terrarium is suitable. For more frogs, go taller!

 * Ventilation: A tight-fitting screen top with a locking mechanism is necessary for adequate ventilation and to prevent escapes.

 * Substrate:

   * Good options that retain moisture include coconut fiber, dampened sphagnum moss, or a bioactive-compatible soil mix (e.g., 50% organic topsoil, 25% peat moss/coconut fiber, 25% play sand).

   * Avoid small pieces of bark, gravel, or small rocks that can be swallowed.

   * Do not use reptile carpet or artificial turf, as it can be too harsh for their delicate skin.

 * Décor:

   * Provide plenty of sturdy branches, driftwood, cork bark, and live or artificial plants for climbing and hiding. Arrange them diagonally to allow movement from the floor to the top.

   * Ensure décor is strong enough to support their weight.

   * Don’t overcrowd the tank, allowing space for insects to hide during feeding.

   * Consider covering the back wall with dark paper or cork bark for security.

 * Water Dish: A large, shallow water dish filled with fresh, dechlorinated water should always be available. They absorb water through their skin. Change the water daily or at least every other day. If using tap water, treat it with a water conditioner to remove chlorine and chloramines.

II. Temperature & Lighting

 * Temperature Gradient: White’s Tree Frogs need a temperature gradient within their enclosure.

   * Daytime: 72-80°F (22-27°C) general air temperature, with a basking spot of 82-84°F (27-29°C).

   * Nighttime: 65-72°F (18-22°C). Temperatures should not drop below 65°F (18°C).

 * Heating:

   * Under-tank heating pads (attached to a thermostat) can provide ambient heat. Place large rocks over the heating pad to absorb heat and provide a warm spot.

   * Low-wattage incandescent bulbs or ceramic heat emitters can be used during the day to create a basking spot and provide additional heat.

   * A nocturnal heat bulb (pure red incandescent or ceramic heat emitter) can be used at night if temperatures drop too low, as they do not emit visible light.

 * Lighting:

   * Provide a consistent 12-hour day and 12-hour night cycle.

   * White’s Tree Frogs are nocturnal, so special bright lighting at night is not needed.

   * UVB Lighting: A low-level UVB bulb (e.g., Reptisun 2.0 or linear 2.0 UVB) is recommended to promote overall health and calcium metabolism. Avoid anything higher than 2.0, as it can be too strong.

   * If using live plants, a plant light will be needed for healthy plant growth.

 * Monitoring: Use at least two thermometers to monitor temperatures, one in the basking area and one in a shaded area. A hygrometer is also essential to monitor humidity.

III. Humidity

 * Humidity Levels: Maintain an average humidity of 50-70%, with a spike up to 70-100% overnight or after misting.

 * Misting: Mist the enclosure daily, preferably in the evening when they become active, using dechlorinated or bottled (not distilled) water. The frequency of misting will depend on how quickly your enclosure dries out.

 * Avoid Over-humidifying: While they need humidity, constant very high humidity (99% or dripping wet) can lead to bacterial and fungal skin infections.

 * Increasing Humidity: Live plants, a false bottom, or a fogger/cool mist humidifier (regulated by a humidistat) can help maintain humidity.

IV. Feeding

 * Diet: White’s Tree Frogs are insectivores. Their primary diet should consist of live insects.

   * Staple Feeders: Crickets and Discoid roaches are excellent staples.

   * Variety: Offer a variety of other insects occasionally, such as black soldier fly larvae, hornworms, silkworms, earthworms, and discoid roaches. Superworms can be fed sparingly as they are fatty.

   * Size: Insects should be no larger than the width of your frog’s head.

   * Never feed wild insects as they may carry parasites or pesticides.

 * Feeding Frequency:

   * Juveniles: Feed daily.

   * Adults: Feed every other day.

   * Adjust the amount based on your frog’s activity level and body condition. If they become overly plump, reduce the amount.

 * Supplementation:

   * Dust food with a calcium supplement (without vitamin D) daily.

   * Dust with a multivitamin supplement (with vitamin D) once a week. This is crucial for bone health and preventing metabolic bone disease, especially in growing juveniles.

   * You can alternate supplements, e.g., two feedings off, one with calcium, two feedings off, one with multivitamin.

V. Cleaning & Maintenance

 * Spot Cleaning: Spot clean the enclosure daily by removing any waste matter from plants and the substrate.

 * Water Dish: Change the water in the dish daily or every other day.

 * Full Enclosure Cleaning:

   * If using paper towels as substrate, change them frequently.

   * If using bark or moss, remove and wash as needed.

   * For natural substrates, change the soil as needed (typically every few months, but less often in a bioactive setup).

   * When cleaning, use plain hot water. Avoid soaps or disinfectants as residues can be harmful to frogs.

   * For non-porous surfaces (like glass), a 50/50 diluted solution of distilled white vinegar with non-chlorinated water can be used for cleaning.

VI. Handling

 * White’s Tree Frogs are generally docile and can tolerate occasional handling.

 * Always wash your hands thoroughly before and after handling to protect both you and your frog from bacteria or skin irritants.

 * Their skin is delicate, so handle them gently and minimally.

VII. General Tips for Beginners

 * Research: Continue to research and learn about White’s Tree Frog care.

 * Veterinarian: It’s always a good idea to have an initial vet check-up, especially for a new pet.

 * Nocturnal: Remember they are nocturnal, so they will be most active in the evening and night.

 * Vocalization: Both male and female White’s Tree Frogs can croak or chirp, and it can be quite loud.

 * Overweight Frogs: White’s Tree Frogs are sometimes called “Dumpy Tree Frogs” due to their plump appearance. While they should be round, they shouldn’t develop “earlids” (rolls of skin covering their ears) as this indicates obesity. Adjust their diet if they become too overweight.

By following these guidelines, you can provide a healthy and enriching environment for your White’s Tree Frog!