Red-Eyed Tree Frog Care

Red-eyed tree frogs (Agalychnis callidryas) are beautiful and captivating amphibians, but they have specific care requirements that make them better suited for beginners who are willing to dedicate time and effort to their well-being.

Red-Eyed Tree Frog Care Sheet for Beginners

1. Enclosure (Terrarium)

 * Size: A glass terrarium of at least 18” x 18” x 24” (length x depth x height) is suitable for 1-2 adult frogs. Taller tanks are crucial as these are arboreal (tree-dwelling) frogs that need vertical space for climbing. For a group of 3-4 frogs, a 20-gallon or larger tank is recommended.

 * Material: Glass terrariums are ideal as they allow for proper ventilation and don’t retain heat too efficiently.

 * Lid: A snugly fitted screen top is essential to prevent escapes and allow for good airflow.

 * Ventilation: Good ventilation is important to prevent stagnant air and reduce the risk of respiratory issues.

2. Substrate

 * Humidity Retention: Choose a substrate that holds humidity well without promoting mold or bacterial growth.

 * Good Options: Sphagnum moss, coconut fiber (coco husk), or a bioactive substrate mix are good choices. Avoid potting soil with perlite or vermiculite, small pieces of bark, or gravel that can be accidentally ingested.

 * Depth: A few inches of substrate will help maintain humidity.

 * Cleaning: Spot clean daily to remove droppings. Thoroughly clean the entire habitat at least once a week.

3. Temperature & Lighting

 * Daytime Temperature: Maintain an ambient air temperature of 75-80°F (24-27°C). You can achieve this with a heat mat on one side of the enclosure, regulated by a thermostat. This creates a temperature gradient, allowing the frog to move to cooler or warmer spots.

 * Nighttime Temperature: Temperatures can drop to the low 70s°F (around 22-23°C) at night, but don’t let them go below 65°F (18°C).

 * UVB Lighting: While red-eyed tree frogs are nocturnal, low-level UVB lighting (2.0 or 5.0) for 10-12 hours a day is highly recommended. UVB allows them to synthesize Vitamin D3, crucial for calcium absorption and preventing metabolic bone disease.

 * Photoperiod: Provide a consistent day/night cycle with a light timer.

4. Humidity

 * Levels: Red-eyed tree frogs require high humidity, ideally between 60-75% during the day, with spikes up to 80-100% after misting.

 * Misting: Mist the enclosure thoroughly 1-2 times daily with dechlorinated water. An automated misting system or fogger can be beneficial for maintaining consistent humidity.

 * Monitoring: Use a digital hygrometer to accurately monitor humidity levels.

 * Water Dish: Provide a shallow, un-tippable water bowl wide enough for your frog to soak in. The water should be 1-2 inches deep. Change the water daily with dechlorinated water (never distilled).

5. Décor & Enrichment

 * Climbing Structures: Red-eyed tree frogs are arboreal, so provide plenty of climbing opportunities. Use sturdy branches, cork bark, driftwood, and live or artificial plants. Arrange them diagonally to allow movement from the bottom to the top.

 * Hiding Spots: Include hides like coconut shells or large pieces of cork bark to make your frog feel secure.

 * Plants: Live plants (e.g., pothos, philodendron, bromeliads) can help maintain humidity and offer climbing/hiding spots. Ensure they are non-toxic. Artificial plants are also an option and are easy to clean.

6. Diet & Feeding

 * Insectivores: Red-eyed tree frogs are insectivores and primarily eat live insects.

 * Staple Diet: Crickets are a common staple, but offer a varied diet to ensure complete nutrition. Other good options include:

   * Discoid roaches

   * Calci-worms (high calcium content)

   * Silkworms

   * Small hornworms

 * Treats (Occasional): Waxworms and mealworms can be offered sparingly as treats due to their higher fat content.

 * Feeding Schedule:

   * Juveniles: Feed daily or every other day.

   * Adults: Feed 2-3 times a week.

 * Quantity: Offer 3-6 insects per feeding, no larger than the space between your frog’s eyes.

 * Supplementation:

   * Calcium: Dust insects with a calcium supplement (without D3) 2-3 times a week.

   * Multivitamin: Dust insects with a high-quality multivitamin with D3 once a week, especially if not using UVB lighting regularly (though UVB is still recommended).

 * Feeding Time: Feed at night when your frog is most active. You can use feeding tongs to offer insects or simply release them into the enclosure.

7. Water Quality

 * Always use dechlorinated water for misting and the water bowl. Tap water can be treated with a reptile-safe water conditioner to remove chlorine and chloramines.

 * Never use distilled water, as it lacks essential minerals and can cause health problems.

8. Handling

 * Red-eyed tree frogs have delicate skin and absorb substances through it, so handle them minimally.

 * If you must handle them, always wash your hands thoroughly with plain, unsoapy water first to remove any oils, lotions, or chemicals. Keep handling time short and gentle.

Important Considerations for Beginners:

 * Research: Continuously research and learn about red-eyed tree frog care.

 * Quarantine: If you get a new frog, especially if you have other amphibians, quarantine it in a separate enclosure for a few weeks to monitor its health and prevent the spread of any potential parasites or diseases.

 * Veterinarian: Find an experienced exotic veterinarian in your area who treats amphibians in case of illness.

By providing a suitable environment and consistent care, you can help your red-eyed tree frog thrive and enjoy this beautiful amphibian for years to come!