🦎 White-Eyed Crocodile Skink Care Guide
| 🏆 VITAL STATS & DIFFICULTY | |
|---|---|
| Experience Level: | Intermediate |
| Max Size: | 8–10 Inches |
| Lifespan: | 10–12 Years |
🏗️ Enclosure & Hide Design
White-Eyed Crocodile Skinks (*Tribolonotus novaeguineae*) are slightly hardier than their Red-Eyed cousins but share the same need for high humidity and security.
Minimum Enclosure Dimensions:
- Single/Pair: 20 Gallon Long (minimum), but a 40 Gallon Breeder is far superior for maintaining stable parameters.
Glass or PVC enclosures work best. They are terrestrial but will climb low branches. Security is key; they need to feel invisible to feel safe.
⚠️ HANDLING WARNING
Like all Tribolonotus species, they are extremely shy. They stress easily and may drop their tails or play dead if handled roughly. They are display animals, not lap pets.
☀️ Low-Intensity UVB & Ferguson Zones
These skinks are crepuscular (active at dawn/dusk) and spend much of their time under leaf litter. They require low-level UV for calcium absorption.
Ferguson Zone Classification:
- ★ Zone 1 (Shade Dweller): Low Light/Crypto-basking. Target UVI range: 0.4 to 0.7.
- Zone 2+: Direct sunlight is too intense and can cause overheating or stress.
UVB Requirements:
- Type: T5 HO Linear Tube (Arcadia ShadeDweller 7% or Reptisun 5.0).
- Strength: Keep UV low; avoid "desert" strength bulbs.
- Coverage: The UV should only cover a portion of the tank, leaving dark zones.
📐 The "Dappled" Strategy
Mimic the forest floor lighting:
- Distance: Ensure bulbs are at least 10-12" above the skink's back.
- Foliage: Use fake or real plants to break up the light rays, creating a "dappled sunlight" effect on the ground.
🌡️ Cool Temperatures & High Humidity
White-Eyed Croc Skinks are cool-climate reptiles. They overheat very easily. Humidity is non-negotiable for their health.
| Requirement | Specification |
|---|---|
| Ambient Warm Side | 78°F - 82°F |
| Cool Side Ambient | 72°F - 76°F |
| Humidity Level | 75% - 90% (Constant) |
| CRITICAL LOWER LIMIT | NEVER BELOW 65°F |
| CRITICAL UPPER LIMIT | NEVER ABOVE 85°F |
Pro Tip: If your home gets hot in the summer, you must use air conditioning or ice packs on top of the cage. Temps over 85°F can be fatal within hours.
🦗 Insectivorous Diet & Hunting
They are strict insectivores. They prefer soft-bodied insects and hunting at night or in low light.
Dietary Staples:
- Dubia Roaches/Crickets: The main diet. Keep them smaller than the width of the skink's head.
- Earthworms/Nightcrawlers: Excellent source of moisture and calcium (cut into pieces if large).
- Isopods: They will hunt the "clean up crew" in their tank.
- Treats: Waxworms or mealworms (sparingly, as they are high in fat).
Supplementation:
Dust insects with Calcium (with D3) every other feeding. Use a multivitamin once a week to ensure long-term health.
🌿 Bioactive Substrate & Water
A bioactive setup is highly recommended to maintain the high humidity requirements without growing mold.
Substrate & Water Features:
- Mix: Organic topsoil, sphagnum moss, and coco fiber. Keep it damp but not swampy.
- Leaf Litter: Essential. They need a deep layer of leaves to hide under.
- Water: Provide a large, shallow water bowl. They soak frequently to aid shedding, though they swim less than Red-Eyed skinks.
🚨 HYDRATION WARNING
Dehydration is the #1 killer of this species. If the enclosure looks dry, it is already too dry. Mist heavily morning and night.
📝 Daily & Weekly Maintenance
✅
Daily: Mist the enclosure thoroughly to spike humidity to 90%.
✅
Daily: Change water bowl (they often drag dirt into it).
✅
Weekly: Spot clean waste (though bioactive crews help with this).
✅
Monthly: Add fresh leaf litter and check plant health.
🛒 Essential Setup Reference Checklist
Housing & Tech:
📦 20 Gallon Long or 40 Breeder Enclosure
💡 Arcadia ShadeDweller 7% UVB
🔥 Low-wattage DHP (Deep Heat Projector)
🌡️ Digital Thermometer/Hygrometer Probes
🏠 Cork bark tubes and half-logs
Supplies & Health:
💧 Large shallow water dish
🌿 Live plants (Pothos, Ferns)
💊 Calcium with D3 and Multivitamin
🦗 Dubia Roaches and Earthworms
🧴 Pressure sprayer for misting
❓ Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What is the difference from Red-Eyes? Visually, they lack the red eye ring and have slightly spikier heads. Care is nearly identical, though White-Eyes are sometimes considered slightly hardier.
Do they vocalize? Yes! Like the Red-Eyed variety, they can make squeaking or barking sounds when distressed or during interactions.
Can I keep them in pairs? Yes, a male/female pair often does well. Never keep two males together; they will fight aggressively over territory.
Why is it hiding constantly? This is normal behavior. They are cryptic animals. If you provide MORE hiding spots, you will actually see them more often because they feel safe.
Do they need a water feature? They need a large bowl to soak in, but they don't strictly require a swimming area/paludarium like Red-Eyes, though they will use it if provided.
How often do they eat? Feed juveniles daily. Adults can be fed every 2-3 days. Leave insects in a bowl so they can hunt when you aren't watching.
Can they drop their tails? Yes. It is a defense mechanism. The tail will regrow, but it will never look as perfect as the original.
What plants are safe? Pothos, Philodendrons, Ferns, and Bromeliads are excellent. They love dense vegetation to crawl under.
Do they bite? Very rarely. They are much more likely to play dead or run away than to bite a human.
Can I use a heat mat? A heat mat on the side of the tank is okay for supplemental heat, but overhead heat (DHP) is more natural and penetrates better.
Why is the skin looking dull? They are about to shed. Increase humidity immediately to help the old skin peel off cleanly.
Are they good for handling? No. They are best viewed as display animals in a naturalistic terrarium. Handling causes significant stress.
How many eggs do they lay? They lay only one egg at a time, usually several times a year. They may even guard the egg, which is rare for lizards!
Do they need UVB if they hide? Yes. Even cryptic basking (sticking a tail or nose out) allows them to absorb UV. It prevents metabolic bone disease.
Is fogging good for them? Yes, a fogger on a timer (running at night) is a great way to maintain the 80-90% humidity they crave.
